Timepiece made from rose gold alloy

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a timepiece or piece of jewelry comprising an alloy containing at least 750 wt.-‰ gold, characterised in that the alloy comprises copper, calcium at a concentration of less than or equal to 10‰ or 7‰ or even 5‰, and/or silicon at a concentration of less than or equal to 2‰ or less than or equal to 0.5‰.

INTRODUCTION

The invention relates to a rose gold alloy, particularly suitable for a timepiece, and a timepiece or jewelry part per se comprising such an alloy, for instance a watch.

PRIOR ART

The color of gold alloys depends on their contents of alloying elements. For 18 ct AuCuAg alloys for example, a copper content of greater than 180‰ and a silver content of the order of 40‰ gives them a red color. The color changes toward pink then toward yellow if the copper content decreases from 180‰ to 150‰ then from 150‰ to 60‰ and if the silver content increases from 40‰ to 150‰. We have observed that watch cases or bracelets manufactured from these standard gold alloys have a tendency to undergo a gradual modification of their color under the action of tap water, sea water, swimming pool water, salt water or else soapy water.

One of the objectives of the invention is to improve the resistance to color change of a timepiece or jewelry part manufactured from a rose gold alloy and subjected, during use, to weakly corrosive aqueous media.

Another objective of the invention is to define a gold alloy of pink color, the pink of which has the most attractive esthetic appearance possible.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

For this purpose, the invention is based on a timepiece or jewelry part comprising an alloy comprising at least 750‰ gold by weight, wherein the alloy comprises copper, and comprises calcium, with a calcium content less than or equal to 10‰, or even 7‰, or even 5‰, and/or silicon, with a silicon content less than or equal to 2‰, or even less than or equal to 0.5‰.

The invention is precisely defined by the claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

These subjects, features and advantages of the present invention will be explained in detail in the following description of particular embodiments given non-limitingly in connection with the appended figures, among which:

FIG. 1 shows three experimental discoloration curves obtained respectively on a 13Pd (curve 1), 5In (curve 2) and 20Pd10In (curve 3) alloy.

FIG. 2 represents a table of discoloration test results obtained after 20 days on various alloys.

FIG. 3 represents a table of discoloration test results obtained after 40 days on various alloys.

FIG. 4 represents the discoloration obtained after 40 days as a function of the sum of the palladium and indium components of various alloys.

FIG. 5 illustrates the discoloration obtained after 40 days for various alloys as a function of the palladium and indium contents thereof.

FIG. 6 schematically positions several alloys on a graph in order to illustrate the color obtained for these various alloys.

Embodiments of the invention will now be presented, using precise examples and results of empirical experiments. For this, ingots are prepared by static vacuum casting (melting in a graphite crucible and cooling under nitrogen). Samples are cut from the ingot in the as-cast state. The surface is prepared by polishing. A typical sample has a square cross section of 20 mm×20 mm×5 mm. All the tests are carried out on as-cast alloys, without subsequent deformation or heat treatment, and without addition of customary grain refiners.

Crystallographic analysis of the samples is carried out with an x-ray diffractometer with Cu anode. A metallographic test and an analysis of the stoichiometries of the phases are carried out by scanning electron microscopy SEM-EDX.

The color variations are measured with a spectrocolorimeter with integrating sphere. The color is defined conventionally by a point of the CIELAB space formed by a green-red axis as abscissa, by a blue-yellow axis as ordinate and from an axis representative of the contrast (cf. CIE15:2004 report prepared by the International Commission on Illumination). The measurements were all carried out using the following convention: D65 illuminant and 10° standard observer (CIE1964). The color differences ΔE are defined by the DE2000 (equation 8.36, paragraph 8.3, CIE15:2004 report). The color difference is measured between new (cast and polished) samples and samples that have undergone accelerated aging in salt spray, with an exposure according to the NIHS 96-50 standard at a temperature of 45° C. with a saline solution containing 50 g/l of pure NaCl. The 750Au250Cu alloy serves as a reference base.

The following convention is used for the naming of the alloys:

-   -   for 18 ct (750Au) alloys, indication of the content of the         alloying elements in per mille by weight before the symbol of         the element. The copper content is not indicated since it         corresponds to the balance. However, this copper content will         advantageously be greater than or equal to 180‰, or even greater         than or equal to 200‰. Example: 10In corresponds to a         750Au240Cu10In alloy;     -   for alloys that are not 18 ct, indication of the content of Au         in per mille by weight before the element then indication of the         alloying elements in accordance with the preceding point;     -   The value ranges that will be mentioned hereinafter may include         or exclude the limits thereof, in the cases where this is not         specified.

The table in FIG. 2 and the graph of FIG. 1 summarize the results obtained after salt spray aging for various solid ingots made of gold alloy. The table in FIG. 3 presents the results obtained on alloys after salt spray ageing for 40 days.

The 13Pd alloy is very advantageous, from the point of view of the color obtained and of the discoloration. This discoloration as a function of time is represented by curve 1 from FIG. 1.

More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper and with a content of palladium (Pd) defined by: Pd≦20‰ or Pd≦15‰, or 5‰≦Pd≦15‰, or 8‰≦Pd≦15‰, or 11‰≦Pd≦15‰, is advantageous.

The AuCuIn alloys are advantageous, since the results demonstrate that In makes it possible to form a single-phase alloy with Au and Cu. In particular, the 5In alloy drifts very little, as is seen on curve 2 from FIG. 1, and already shows an improvement with respect to the reference of a 250Cu alloy. Indeed, the tests carried out show that there is an optimum of the color drift between 5‰ and 20‰ In, in particular around 10‰, with a preferred range between 7‰≦In≦15‰. More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, and with a content of indium (In) defined by: In≦20‰ or In≦15‰, or 5‰≦In<20‰, or 7‰≦In≦15‰, is advantageous.

The quaternary or quinternary alloys comprising palladium are also very advantageous. In particular, as it emerges from the results from FIGS. 2 and 3 relating to the resistance to discoloration over time, the 20Pd 10In, 10Pd 5In 5Ca, 15Pd 10In 5Ca, 5Pd 10In 5Ca, 10Pd 5In, 20Pd 10In 0.1Si, etc. alloys exhibit low drifts and are advantageous. The alloys comprising a small amount of calcium or silicon are particularly advantageous.

More generally, it is also noted that an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, of palladium and of indium is advantageous, particularly when the sum of the contents of Pd and In is less than or equal to 45‰, or even 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰, and/or when the sum of the contents of Pd and In is within the range between 15‰ and 40‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, and/or when the alloy comprises at least 1‰ Pd and 1‰ In, or even at least 5‰ Pd and 5‰ In.

More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, of palladium and of at least one element Y, Y being selected from Ca, Zr, or In, is advantageous, particularly when the sum of the contents of palladium and of the element(s) Y is less than or equal to 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰, or even 25‰, or even 20‰, or even 17‰, or even 15‰, or even 13‰, and/or when the sum of the contents of Pd and of the element(s) Y is within the range between 15‰ and 40‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, and/or when the alloy comprises at least 1‰ Pd and 1‰ of the element(s) Y, or even at least 5‰ Pd and 5‰ of the element(s) Y. More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, of palladium and of at least one element Y, Y being selected from In, Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, or Mg, is advantageous, particularly when the sum of the contents of palladium and of the element(s) Y is less than or equal to 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰, or even 25‰, or even 20‰, or even 17‰, or even 15‰, or even 13‰, and/or when the sum of the contents of Pd and of the element(s) Y is within the range between 15‰ and 40‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, and/or when the alloy comprises at least 1‰ Pd and 1‰ of the element(s) Y, or even at least 5‰ Pd and 5‰ of the element(s) Y.

The quaternary or quinternary alloys with In are also advantageous. More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, of indium and of at least one element Y, Y being selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg or Pd, is advantageous, particularly when the sum of the contents of indium and of the element Y is less than or equal to 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰, or even 25‰, or even 20‰, or even 17‰, or even 15‰, or even 13‰, and/or when the sum of the contents of In and of the element(s) Y is within the range between 15‰ and 40‰, or between 20‰ and 35‰, and/or when the alloy comprises at least 1‰ In and 1‰ of the element(s) Y, or even at least 5% In and 5% of the element(s) Y.

The following ternary alloys that are 18 ct or more are particularly advantageous:

-   -   AuCuPd with Pd<20‰, more particularly with 5‰≦Pd<20‰, more         particularly with 5‰≦Pd≦15‰;     -   AuCuIn with In<20‰, more particularly with 5‰≦In<20‰, more         particularly with 7‰≦In≦15‰.

The AuCuPdln quaternary alloys that are 18 ct or more are particularly advantageous:

-   -   in particular with the sum of the contents of Pd and In less         than or equal to 45‰, or even 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰;     -   and/or with the sum of the contents of Pd and In within the         range between 15‰ and 40‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰;     -   and/or with at least 1‰ Pd and 1‰ In, or even at least 5‰ Pd and         5‰ In;     -   in particular the 20Pd10In alloy or the 10Pd5In alloy.

The following quaternary or quinternary alloys that are 18 ct or more are also particularly advantageous:

-   -   AuCuXY, where X is Pd or In, and Y is at least one element from         among Pd (if X≠Pd), In (if X≠In), Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, or Mg;     -   in particular with the sum of the contents X+Y≦40‰;     -   and/or with the concentrations for Pd, In and element(s) Y: Pd,         In≦40‰ and Y (Y≠In,Pd)≦10‰;     -   and/or with at least 1‰ Pd and 1‰ of the element(s) Y, or even         at least 5‰ Pd and 5‰ of the element(s) Y.

The AuCuPdInX quinternary alloys where X is selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg are also advantageous.

Lastly, it should be noted that other alloys comprising more than four elements may also be advantageous, for example containing five or six elements, obtained by replacing the element Y from the quaternary compounds mentioned above with n elements Y₁, Y₂, . . . , Y_(n), the elements Y_(i) preferably being selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg, Pd or In, and so that the sum of the contents of all the elements apart from Au and Cu is less than or equal to 40‰. Such alloys especially include the alloys comprising the components Au, Cu, Pd, In and X, where X is at least one element selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg.

Finally, it is noted that the alloys combining both palladium and indium are particularly advantageous compared to the alloys comprising only one or other of these components, as curve 3 from FIG. 1 and the results of the tables from FIGS. 2 and 3 illustrate. It is also noted above all that the addition of a small amount of calcium and/or silicon to these alloys makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the resistance to discoloration.

In particular, it appears that an alloy comprising at least 750‰ gold by weight, also comprising copper, palladium and indium, the sum of the contents of palladium and indium being less than or equal to 45‰, or even less than or equal to 35‰, or even less than or equal to 30‰, and/or the sum of the contents of palladium and indium being between 20‰ and 35‰, is advantageous. Such an alloy may comprise a content of indium defined by: 7‰≦content of In≦15‰. Moreover, such an alloy may comprise gold, copper, palladium and calcium and/or silicon, so that the sum of the contents of all the elements apart from gold and copper is less than or equal to 40‰.

FIGS. 4 and 5 additionally illustrate the advantage of combining palladium and indium and make it possible to visualize the optimal amounts.

FIG. 4 illustrates the discoloration obtained after 40 days for various alloys, as a function of the sum of the contents of palladium and indium that they comprise. It appears that the best results are obtained for a sum greater than or equal to 15‰, and are further improved for a sum greater than or equal to 20‰. The range 20‰-35‰ groups together several alloys that perform very well, and the reduced range 25‰-33‰ groups together results that are further optimized.

FIG. 5 gives additional information on the division of these contents between the two palladium and indium components. It appears that the best results are obtained for a palladium content between 15‰ and 30‰, or even between 19‰ and 29‰, and an indium content between 1‰ and 15‰ inclusive. As an observation, it is noted that, starting from the use of a small amount of indium, for example between 1‰ and 10‰, or between 1‰ and 6‰, and even between 1‰ and 4‰, there is a significant advantageous effect owing to the combination thereof with palladium.

Besides the above very important considerations relating to maintaining the color of an alloy over time, it is also necessary to take into account the quality of the color itself obtained for an alloy in question, and particularly the esthetics of the pink color obtained. Indeed, the addition of the various components mentioned above has an effect not only on maintaining the color over time, but also on the color itself of the alloy. For example, the addition of palladium to a rose gold alloy has the effect of desaturating the pink color, even of making the color of the alloy tend toward gray, and the addition of indium has the effect of a drift toward yellow of a rose alloy.

FIG. 6 schematically illustrates these observations. It is noted that the coordinate a* is the abscissa and the coordinate b* is the ordinate. As an observation, this color can be measured with respect to reference colors, and may also be the subject of a visual examination, the esthetic affect obtained being particularly notable via visual observation. The first reference alloy is a conventional 18 carat yellow gold alloy, positioned on the top left part of the diagram, in the vicinity of the ordinate axis, corresponding to a strong yellow dominant feature. The second reference alloy is a very red 18 carat gold alloy, comprising 250‰ copper, positioned on the bottom right part of the diagram, in the vicinity of the abscissa axis. It is noted that the addition of a relatively large amount of palladium, as the example of the 40Pd alloy illustrates, has the effect of greatly reducing the saturation of the color, to ultimately give a very pale alloy, of grayish appearance. After several tests, it appears useful to use an amount of palladium less than or equal to 29‰ in order to retain a satisfactory pink color, which is expressed by a positioning in the zone 5 displayed in FIG. 6. Thus, a 20Pd alloy is positioned for example at a level with a satisfactory pink color. It is noted that the addition of a small amount of indium to this 20Pd alloy has little effect on the color, as illustrated schematically by the positioning of the 20Pd10In alloy in FIG. 6, which is very close to the 20Pd alloy. As an observation, if we had added 10Pd to the 20Pd alloy, in order to obtain a 30Pd alloy, as a replacement for the 10In added, the desaturation of the pink color would have been very pronounced. This also makes it possible to conclude that, from the point of view of the color, it is advantageous to combine indium and palladium, rather than to consider a single equivalent amount of palladium. It furthermore appears that, in order to obtain a satisfactory pink color, the sum of the contents of the two components must not be too large, otherwise the pink will be degraded with respect to the desired pink. It is thus preferable to remain at less than or equal to 35‰, or even 33‰, 30‰, 29 ‰ or 25‰, these values representing various plateaus, which are all satisfactory, but that successively make it possible to improve the result. In addition, it is also advantageous to select a sufficient minimum amount of the sum of the contents of the palladium and indium components in order to prevent the pink color from tending toward red. For this, it appears that a minimum of 15‰ is highly recommended, and that it is necessary to preferably select a value greater than or equal to 20‰, or even 25‰. As a summary of these considerations, the sum of the palladium and indium contents is advantageously within the ranges between 15‰-35‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, or even between 25‰ and 33‰, which represent advantageous choices for obtaining a satisfactory pink color of a gold alloy, it being possible for these limits to be included or excluded.

Finally, the rose gold alloys that combine palladium and indium are advantageous since they make it possible simultaneously to achieve a color of satisfactory esthetics and which discolors little with time. The precise amounts for each of these two components and the sum thereof represent compromises between the reduction in discoloration and the esthetics of the desired pink color. We note however that the ranges for this sum of the palladium and indium contents that make it possible simultaneously to achieve a satisfactory pink color and a low discoloration are between 15‰ and 35‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, or even between 25‰ and 33‰, as emerges from the preceding analyses. Within these ranges, a high palladium content, greater than or equal to 15‰, or even greater than or equal to 19‰, is favorable to the reduction in discoloration. On the contrary, a low palladium content, less than or equal to 20‰, or even less than or equal to 19‰ or 18‰, is favorable to the esthetics of the pink color. As a compromise, a palladium content between 19‰ and 25‰ inclusive forms a good solution.

The preceding considerations may be adapted to any amount of copper greater than or equal to 180‰, especially also for a relatively small amount of copper, for example between 180‰ and 200‰. However, we note that it is possible to relax some of the above ranges supposing that a large amount of copper is imposed, especially greater than or equal to 200‰. Indeed, in this case, a pink color may be more easily obtained, even using larger amounts of the components that tend to degrade it, as explained above. The result of this is that if the amount of copper Cu is greater than or equal to 200‰, it is possible to obtain suitable alloys with a palladium content between 4‰ and 35‰ and an indium content between 1‰ and 16‰.

In all cases, if it is desired to guarantee the optimal anti-discoloration effect (anti-aging effect with time), it then becomes advantageous to choose a relatively high palladium content, which may then be between 19‰ and 35‰, or even between 21‰ and 35‰. If it is also desired to avoid too great a degradation of the esthetics of the pink color, it is possible to lower the upper threshold of the palladium content, closer to 30‰ if possible and preferably strictly under 30‰. The optimal ranges taking into account these constraints are then a palladium content between 23‰ and 31‰ inclusive, or even between 23‰ and 29‰ inclusive, or even between 23‰ and 27‰ inclusive, in order to converge around a value of 25‰ which appears to be a good compromise.

The preceding considerations were made using an example of 18 carat rose gold, i.e. 750‰ gold. As a variant, the results remain relevant for a larger amount of gold, in particular between 750‰ and 800‰, or even 750‰ and 770‰.

The above compositions mention only the predominant elements of the alloy, to which it is possible to add at least one grain refining element according to the knowledge of a person skilled in the art, which gives other embodiment variants of the invention. This grain refining element may be present, for example, at most at a content of 2‰, or even 1‰, of at least one element selected by way of example from Ru, Ir, Re, Co, V and Mo. in particular, the elements such as Ir, Re or Ru make it possible to guarantee the fineness of the grain and to avoid porosities, without substantially modifying the hardness, nor affecting the color, which is advantageous with respect to the desired object.

As mentioned previously, the various figures illustrate a particular technical effect obtained with the addition of calcium Ca and/or silicon Si, in a very small amount, regarding the reduction in discoloration of the alloys cited by way of example. A very small amount, in particular less than or equal to 10‰, or even 7‰, or even 5‰, for calcium, and/or less than or equal to 2‰, or even 0.5‰, for silicon, is sufficient to significantly reduce the discoloration over time of the alloys illustrated, without having a notable effect on the color itself, in particular provided that a sufficient content of copper, preferably greater than or equal to 200‰, is used. For example, it appears in FIG. 2 that the 10Pd 5In 5Ca alloy withstands discoloration better than a 10Pd 5In alloy. Similarly, a 20Pd 10In 1Ca or 20Pd 10In 0.5Ca or 20Pd 10In 0.1Si or 20Pd 10In 0.02Si alloy is better than a 20Pd 10In alloy. The preceding studies have highlighted the advantage of combining calcium or silicon with a rose gold alloy that combines palladium and indium. However, this favorable effect of the components Ca and Si is also borne out on any other rose gold alloy, not necessarily comprising palladium and indium. By way of example, it is seen in FIG. 2 that a 10Pd 5Ca alloy is much better than a 13Pd or 10Pd 5In alloy. As another example, the addition of the components Ca and Si to rose gold alloys comprising platinum also makes it possible to obtain alloys that withstand discoloration better.

Thus, the invention relates to a timepiece or jewelry part comprising an alloy comprising at least 750‰ gold by weight, wherein the alloy also comprises at least 180‰ copper, or even at least 200‰ copper, and comprises calcium, with a calcium content less than or equal to 10‰, or even 7‰, or even 5‰, and/or silicon, with a silicon content less than or equal to 2‰, or even 0.5‰.

As was explained above, the alloys according to the invention could also comprise other components, in addition to the components Au, Cu, Ca and/or Si mentioned above, in particular Pd and/or In and/or Pt and/or Ag, and at least one optional grain refiner, and/or other components from among Sr, Ti, Zr, Mg. Advantageously, the sum of the contents of all the elements of the alloy apart from gold and copper is less than or equal to 40‰. As a variant, the alloy may consist of only these components Au, Cu, Ca and/or Si, or Au, Cu, Pd and/or In and/or Pt and/or Ag, Ca and/or Si, with, in these variants, one (or more) optional grain refiner(s).

As an observation, the upper limits of the preferential concentration are different for Ca and Si, since it is clear that their behavior as a function of the concentration in the alloy is not identical. It is indeed preferable to avoid formation of precipitates in order to be able to deform and/or polish the solid alloy. The concentration of Ca and Si will have to be adjusted by a person skilled in the art as a function of the composition used for the rose gold alloy.

As an additional observation, other tests have shown that other elements such as gallium do not have a comparable effect to calcium and/or silicon.

As an additional observation, it is noted that such a rose gold alloy according to the embodiments of the invention may not comprise silver, which induces the negative effect of yellowing the color of the alloy and even of making this color tend toward an unattractive greenish color, then moving away from the desired pink color. Furthermore, as is seen at the bottom of the table from FIG. 3 from a test carried out with an example of a 40Ag alloy, it appears that silver does not have any very effective effect on the resistance of the color over time, in comparison with the other alloys studied. There are therefore two good reasons for excluding silver from all the embodiments proposed above. However, alloys comprising silver are not totally excluded since they could still take up the advantages mentioned above. Substantially the same conclusion is obtained for manganese.

Lastly, in all the embodiments above, the alloys described will therefore perform particularly well for producing all or a portion of a timepiece, such as a watch case, a bracelet, a watch, etc., or a jewelry part. Naturally, this creation of a timepiece or jewelry part means the manufacture of all or a significant portion of the thickness of a timepiece, and not a simple surface coating. The tests studied and described above furthermore relate to solid volumes of certain alloys. Thus, the pieces or parts considered comprise a large amount of alloy, are advantageously in the form of a solid alloy capable of being deformed and of being polished, in particular comprising at least one portion having a thickness greater than or equal to 0.1 mm. 

1. A timepiece or jewelry part comprising an alloy comprising, by weight: at least 750‰ gold, copper, and at least one of (i) calcium, wherein a content of calcium is less than or equal to 10‰, and (ii) silicon, wherein a content of silicon is less than or equal to 2‰.
 2. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy comprises at least 180‰.
 3. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy comprises at least one of (i) palladium and (ii) indium.
 4. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy comprises at least one of (i) platinum and (ii) silver.
 5. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 3, wherein the alloy comprises at least one of (i) between 1‰ and 40‰ palladium, (ii) between 1‰ and 40‰ indium, (iii) between 1‰ and 40‰ platinum, and (iv) between 1‰ and 50‰ silver.
 6. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 3, wherein a sum of contents of (i) the at least one of palladium and indium and (ii) the at least one of calcium and silicon is less than or equal to 40‰.
 7. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy does not comprise at least one of (i) silver and (ii) manganese.
 8. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 3, wherein the alloy comprises between 4‰ and 35‰ palladium and between 1‰ and 16‰ indium.
 9. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy comprises at least one of (i) between 19‰ and 35‰ palladium and (ii) between 1‰ and 16‰ indium.
 10. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 3, wherein the alloy comprises palladium and indium, a sum of contents of palladium and indium being less than or equal to 35‰.
 11. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the timepiece or jewelry part has at least one solid portion composed of said alloy and comprising a thickness greater than or equal to 0.1 mm.
 12. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy furthermore comprises at least one grain refining element.
 13. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 12, wherein a content of the grain refining element(s) is less than or equal to 2‰.
 14. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy consists of: gold, copper, and at least one of calcium and silicon, or gold, copper, at least one of calcium and silicon, and at least one of palladium and indium, or gold, copper, at least one of calcium and silicon, and at least one of platinum and silver, or gold, copper, at least one of calcium and silicon, and at least one grain refining element, or gold, copper, at least one of calcium and silicon, at least one of palladium and indium, and at least one grain refining element, or gold, copper, at least one of calcium and silicon, at least one of platinum and silver, and at least one grain refining element.
 15. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy furthermore comprises at least one element Y selected from Sr, Ti, Zr, and Mg.
 16. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein a sum of contents of all the elements of the alloy apart from gold and copper is less than or equal to 40‰.
 17. A watch comprising a timepiece as claimed in claim
 1. 18. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy comprises at least one of (i) calcium, wherein a content of calcium is less than or equal to 7‰, and (ii) silicon, wherein a content of silicon is less than or equal to 0.5‰.
 19. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alloy comprises at least 200‰ copper.
 20. The timepiece or jewelry part as claimed in claim 12, wherein the at least one grain refining element is selected from Ru, Ir, Re, Co, V and Mo. 